Friday 28 November 2014

Design Inspiration

Design Inspirations

For my final contemporary Elizabethan makeup design I have researched into high fashion catwalks that have taken the Contemporary Elizabethan style to the runway.

Pat McGrath- Alexander McQueen A/W 14

The image on the right of this picture that was for Alexander Macqueen's A/W 14 show by Pat McGrath. To me is a clear sign of Elizabethan inspiration using the technique of hiding eyebrows with what appears to be bleaching instead of blocking and gives an immediately different effect to the look and the face. In my design I decided to have the eyebrows blocked as this would show a key sign of Elizabethan history but on a contemporary scale to fit in with the rest of my design.





John Galliano A/W 2007 
Makeup- Pat McGrath
Designer- John Galliano A/W 2007

I particularly love this makeup look that is another fab piece from Pat McGrath and I think this is the image that gave me the most inspiration when it came to contouring, as you can see in my other blog post for my designs I have blusher in three different shades mixed together to lightly build up a contoured effect to the cheekbones and around the temple area, the reason I used blusher instead of shader was because the shade of red is a key sign of Elizabethan and was seen as a royal colour and expensive so would only be worn by the higher class society. I also think the blusher contour on my design immediately sets off the gold lips that I have incorporated into my design. 
The look that Pat has brought to life in this image is beautiful and there seems to be something so sophisticated about it but has a clash of innocence with the paled out skin for the base. 

Thursday 20 November 2014

Practise Final Makeup- My Partner

My Partner- Practising My Final Design

This week in our makeup sessions we were paired up with our partners to practise our final makeup designs for assessments in the new 2 weeks. 

Daniella my partner practised my makeup look twice this week on me as she will be going first on the real timed assessments and I will be doing mine the following week. 

As you can see in my previous post I want my eyebrows blocking out and the face quite white but mixed with some natural foundation so its not ghostly white. 

I feel the makeup Daniella produced was pretty much how I was imagining it to look and although there wasn't anything too complicated on my design this means that she need to have the final outcome of the look perfectly done and even all over the face. 

My partner did a fantastic job on blocking my eyebrows out with soap and water and covering them up which I think she was also very happy with as well, they were very smooth and evenly flattened which helped when she began covering with the makeup as you could barely see them at all!!

As for the rest on the makeup she did produce a really good cover on the base, however the only thing I would like is for her to add more natural coloured foundation to the white so it gives a more washed out tone to the face, therefore being slightly more contemporary, and to add more blusher and build on it so it contours more of the cheekbone and is slightly more visible to the front of the face, which she did do on her second attempt as we both discussed and thought it would look better this way. 

My partners first attempt at the full final makeup look

Her second attempt at the full makeup look- as you can see the blusher contour is stronger and the eyebrows are completely covered and barely visible.


Sunday 16 November 2014

Contemporary Elizabethan Final Look

Contemporary Elizabethan Final Look



Here is a face chart for what will hopefully be my final design for my Contemporary Elizabethan makeup assessment which is coming up in a couple of weeks. I will give a breakdown and details of how I would like the outcome of the design to be when applied to the face.
As you can see my design is quite subtle and minimal as I wanted to focus more on the lips and the cheeks for this design. There is a lot of gold to be seen on the face chart which I feel shows Elizabethan as gold was seen to be worn by people of higher class in society and was seen as a royal colour but also gold can also have a contemporary feel to it so I decided to think outside of the box and have the eyelashes coated in gold supra colour instead of the normal black or white. 
For the base of my makeup look I have tried a white base but I feel this look would be better if a white foundation and a hint of natural colour foundation were to be mixed together to give a paled and washed out colour not just pure white. Contouring is more of a modern thing to do in makeup so I decided to keep with the blusher is seen the be very Elizabethan but instead of just applying to the apples of the cheeks I want to gradually and lightly build up the blusher colour in a more of a shader was up and over to define the cheekbones more and then add a sweeping of highlighter under the eyes and down the nose to give more definition to the face. 
I want the eyebrows to be blocked out for my final look which will be done by using a bar or soap and water and to be built up into a paste across the eyebrow hairs and smooth them down ready for the foundation application. 
Then finally for the lips I want to use the gold supra colour again which I think makes this look very contemporary and gives it a more modern and editorial feel to the overall look. 

Products and Tools to be used:

Prep:
Cleanser
Toner
Moisturiser

Face:
Matte Primer
Illamasqua White Foundation 
Kyolan Colour Base Foundation 
Foundation Brush 
Buffing Brush
Transluscent Powder

Eyes:
Gold Supra Colour
Disposable Mascara Wands

Cheeks:
Kyrolan Blusher in R21 & 665G
Blusher Brush 

Lips:
Lip Balm
Gold Supra Colour 

Monday 10 November 2014

WHO ARE: New Elizabethans- One Direction

WHO ARE: New Elizabethans

One Direction 


One Direction are an English and Irish boyband who were put together in 2010 at bootcamp on ITV's XFactor and came third in the competition. 
In just 4 years Harry, Niall, Liam, Louis and Zayn have helped to shape and sculpt the music industry of the 21st Century and are one of the biggest boybands on the planet! From being on the Xfactor and having the initial fan base of around 200 fans which continued to grow week after week and even after they were illuminated from the show they continued to gain support which then grew and headed across Europe before they even released any new singles. 
One Direction were signed to Simon Cowell's record label- Syco Entertainment with a multimillion pound deal and thats when there careers took off!
Within the first few months of releasing there first UK album the boys were beginning to gain international success and once they released there second album Take Me Home they found themselves cracking the American Music Industry. Since then they have released the album "Midnight Memories" in 2013 which has had a monumental amount of success and accompanied with their international Where We Are Stadium Tour in 2014 at 60,000+ capacity for 72 dates shows they are hugely successful in there careers and highly respected by others in the music industry but the biggest thing that matters to them and in every interview they do is that without the huge following of fans that they have and have gained over the 4 years none of there success would be anywhere near as big or possible, There fans adore them and respect everything that they do, One Direction fans are truly loyal and have helped them achieve a huge 91 number ones sold and more than 45 million records sold worldwide.
The strange thing is though, that they are all from normal working class backgrounds and have grounded families that have never been in the spotlight. Yet they deal with the fame and continuous following of paparazzi amazingly and still see themselves as 5 normal boys just with an abnormal career, they never let the fame go to there heads.


One Direction are also highly charity motivated and support and get involved with any good cause they can. In 2013 they released there charity single and video which was a cover of One Way Or Another and Teenage Kicks for Comic Relief filmed on handheld cameras in different places around the globe as the money they would have used to produce the music video were donated towards Comic Relief and proceeds from purchases of the single on iTunes also went towards the charity.

I could go on about what makes them so amazing and successful but I would be here forever. 
I personally feel and I doubt everyone would agree. One Direction do reflect the Elizabethans in an odd way by how they are respected by others in the music industry and to be honest the entertainment industry as a whole, everyone know who they are and know about there huge global success. I feel they have a few things in common with Elizabethans one being that they fan base are extremely loyal and respectful to them just like how the people of the 1500 idolised and were continuously loyal to Queen Elizabeth and supported her reign on the country. 
I also think One Direction have a huge influence on the younger generation of the 21st century similar to how Queen Elizabeth had a huge influence on the people of her time. 


Also im a huge One Direction fan anyway so this blog post may seem to be slightly biased to people who don't particularly like them and see the big deal but I feel like if you look into them as a band, there achievements and what they've tried to do and give back to the UK and to their fanbase I think you'd be surprised how much they want to involved in campaigns and charities that will help to benefit others and all of the hard work that they put into everything that they do. 

Here a picture of my tickets for the Manchester date that they performed at in May 2014!!

Taming of the Shrew

The Taming of the Shrew (2005)


The modern version of The Taming of the Shrew is based on the life of Katherine Minola who is a high class MP in London Parliament, she has a very abrasive, bold and blunt attitude towards others and what seems to be a lot of pent up anger. Katherine's styling throughout most of the film is shown to be on black colouring and sharp suit and harsh necklines and broad shoulders which reflects her attitude but also her status in society and parliament and proves her high class position. 

Then we have Bianca Minola who is Katherine's sister, she gives of the essence of true beauty and is the renaissance ideal of what beauty is, she is a high class actress and has men chasing after her in all directions, especially her manager Harry would run around after her and does everything for her because he holds true feelings towards her but she always knocks him back. Bianca is seen to be quite vain as when were introduced to her apartment there are portraits of herself hung all around the walls and very self orientated and gives the idea that she controls her own imagery as in the papers as well. 

This then leads us to be introduced to Harry, Bianca's manager- he is seen to be of lower class by the way he has been dressed in lots of bold patterned shirts and bright colours which helps us to determine his class to be lower than the Minola's this also reflects Elizabethan and the history of England as land workers were seen in coloured and patterned clothes. 

As for Katherine and Bianca's mother you can tell immediately she is high class in society as she wears what seem to be expensive jewels with velvet and silk clothing and dresses of high quality material. 

Bianca and her mother don't think Katherine will ever get married which is why Bianca told Harry she would only ever marry him when Katherine got married but that plan failed as Harry put a lot of hard work into to matching Katherine up with his friend Petruchio which then lead to them marrying and then instead of Bianca marrying Harry he married the mother instead.


I feel that the character of Katherine and Bianca's mother from The Taming of the Shrew is a true reflection of elizabethan as she is very well spoken and and gives a sense of true upper class in social society and highly respected by others, she is also seen to be a continuous amount of purple and black which is seen be worn by people of high and upper class and by people who have power and control over others. The jewels that she wears throughout the film are looking to be of high quality and tell the story that she has expensive taste of the finer things in life.





Practical: Blocking Eyebrows

Blocking Out Eyebrows

In our practical makeup lesson last week we were shown how to block out eyebrows using soap and water or prig-stick glue.
Here I will give you a step by step guide of how to achieve this and a list of the products you will need.

Products;
Bowl
Soap
Water
Pritt-Stick Glue
Spatula
Cotton Buds
Small Angle Brush
Blusher Pallete
Supra Colour
White Foundation


Step by Step Guide

  • Take a bowl of warm soapy water or your prit-stick glue and scrap a small amount onto the back of your hand and move around until the soap and water has formed into a cream like paste.
  • Take a small amount onto your angle brush or spatula and wipe through the eyebrows in the opposite direction so the product sits through the hairs and then smooth over in an outwards direction
  • Continue to add more product to the eyebrows in an outwards motion, blending the product and smoothing with your fingers as well to ensure the eyebrows and as smooth as possible
  • Build the product up onto the eyebrow until you can no longer feel any eyebrow hair and the eyebrow has been fully covered with product and is smooth and flat as it can be.
  • Using a cotton bud dip this into some of the water bowl and gently work around the edges of the eyebrow to clean off any excess product that may have stuck to the skin as this could ruin or cause issues when applying your initial base.
  • Once the eyebrows are smooth and the edges have been cleaned gently press into the eyebrows to check it they feel dry.
  • If the eyebrows are now dry you will need to take a small makeup sponge and the white foundation and gently dab the foundation onto the eyebrows, continuously building up the colour so the eyebrow colour is barely visible as possible.
  • Then take your foundation brush and continue with the white foundation all over the face, down the neck and over the ears so you have a full coverage of base application to the face and the eyebrows.
  • Take your blusher brush or buffing brush and really work the product into the face and actual make the product work and not just sit on the face 
  • Once your happy with your application and coverage take your blusher palette and a pinky/red blush shade and gently brush over the apples of the cheek, ask your model to smile to help you decide where the product should be applied. 





Here was my first attempt at blocking the eyebrows out and completing a full elizabethan coverage makeup. I used the soap and water technique on my model's left eyebrow and prit stick glue on her right eyebrow to see how each worked and if one worked better than the other. I found that I preferred using the soap and water technique as it gave me more time to apply and I could keep layering it up without it going clumpy and sticky, where as the glue dried quicker and as I tried to add more product it was pulling away from the brows and clumping up which didn't give a smooth finish.



Here is my second attempt of blocking the eyebrows out on a different model this week. My model had quite coarse and think eyebrows so I found it was more difficult for me to build the product up as I only had around 20 minutes to complete and take a picture, as you can see I didn't get a chance to add any blusher or lip colour because I unfortunately ran out of time, however, Im happy that I got to practice the most important thing I wanted to which was the eyebrows as I think I shall be using this technique in my final contemporary Elizabethan makeup look. 
As you can see from the image I needed to work on building the colour up more on my model to flatten the eyebrow down more and give it the smoother finish which would have then resulted in me being able to apply a better and even base.

Sunday 2 November 2014

Introduction to Drawing

Introduction to Drawing

This week in Kat's session we were given an introduction to basic drawing techniques which plays a huge part in being a makeup artist.

We were shown the correct way to hold the sketching pencils and the different shades you can get from the different size leads in the pencil, we were asked to draw different shapes in different sizes to get familiar with drawing and the pencil's and to help us improve our techniques.

Drawing has never been a strong point of mine in fact i think it would be one of my main weak points as I've just never been able to grasp how to perfect it but I would like to think that the session's we have on drawing technique will begin to help and benefit me into improving.

Here are some of the activities we did in the session.






Saturday 1 November 2014

The Masters of Drawing

The Masters of Drawing


Leonardo Da Vinci


Da Vinci was Italian with many different skill sets such as scientist, mathematician, inventor and painter. He was described by others a archetype "renaissance man". Da Vinci was primarily a painter and his two most popular pieces of work were the world famous and iconic portrait the Mono Lisa and the most religious painting The Last Supper- these are the most reproduced and copied paintings of all time. 
There are only around fifteen of Da Vinci's paintings that have been found and survived due to the experimentation that he would try out with new techniques and some times ruin the painting. 
He was also the creator of Vitruvian Man which is also very iconic around the world.


Michael Angelo
Michael Angelo was an Italian sculptor, painter and architect. A number of his creations have been highly thought of as the most iconic and famous creations of all time and existence. Most of his drawings were not for public viewing and display and most where destroyed before he died. 
Some of his most iconic work are The Holy Family, David and Pieta.







Carina Buckley Analytical Review- The Danger Dress

Analytical Review- The Danger Dress

In Tuesday's session we had a guest speaker Carina Buckley who gave us some tips and advice on how to be more critical when analysing images and reviewing. 

We have been asked to do a blog post on a image names "The Danger Dress" and review the image in a more detailed and critical way.


This is the image I have selected to review from the website above.

In the image we can clearly see a girl modelling a white dress and white trainers on the street of Venice Blvd so we clearly know this is set in Los Angeles, however the meaning behind the image isn't exactly clear to me as I don't think there is a meaning behind this because what does a white dress and white trainers have to do with a street in LA apart from maybe that it is a summer outfit and the sun is shining. The significance of the location is that is is based in LA and its a popular main road through east Los Angeles. 
Her poses are quite chilled and laid back in a sense that its a relaxing sunny day and there no rush or chaos around her, however, the model does come across to me personally as quite vain as all the other images on the website as well she is seen to be holding her hair back and looking down at the camera like she's above everyone else and she's more worthy. 
The background of the image pay no reference to the outfit or what is trying to be portrayed it is as if they have just decided that the weather is nice and sunny and they want to shoot the images outside and get the cool Los Angeles vide to fit with the chilled vibe of the outfit. The lighting is good in the way that they have managed to capture the ray of sunshine coming across the image but wether that was intentional or not I'm not too sure and they have opted for natural light rather than artificial. 


The Seven Photographs That Changed Fashion

The Seven Photographs That Changed Fashion


The Seven Photographs That Changed Fashion is a documentary based on looking at iconic fashion images from throughout the decades and follows one particular photographer John Rankin Waddell also known as "Rankin" in his search around the world to find out what made the certain 'seven images' so iconic and the photographers that shot them and then goes on to try to recreate a modernised version of these images with new, improved and much more modern technology and equipment.

Vogue 1939- White Panama Hat
The first image we see in the documentary is the "White Panama Hat" for Vogue 1939 which was shot by Cecil Beaton.
Cecil Beaton was a world famous photography and often was seen to have shot images of high society and famous social figures.
Cecil's images were often quite elaborate, quirky yet enforced true beauty.
Rankin recreates his own version of the "White Panama Hat" with singer and model Sophie Ellis Baxter who has a true feel of the 1930's model material, he first starts out using the equipment that Beaton would have used back in the 30's but realises just how difficult it is proving to be to get the correct shot when there is no mirror or digital image on the lens to check the shot. Rankin then switched back to using a digital camera which proves to take a lot less time and was quicker paced.




Vogue Cover 1950- Erwin Blumenfeld
 

Rankin with Hiedi Klum

Rankin then goes onto to finding out more about fashion photographer Erwin Blumenfeld and find out bait more about his background and the Vogue cover that he shot in 1950 which still remains one of them most world famous cover images. 
Rankin found out that Blumenfeld developed all his own work backstage in the dark room and shot more cover shoots than any other photographer at that time. The original cover image was so simple and direct to the point but still enraptures feelings and emotions in the way the model posed and the image was shot. The image still works even though its missing an eye and eyebrow and the nose has been brushed out, its still captivating and a feel of true beauty is still there.
Rankin's recreation was with model Heidi Klum as she has a similar resemblance to the original models features and she can be versatile to whatever character she needs to be on a shoot.

Dovima with Elephants- Harpers Bazaar 1955

Rankin with Erin O'Connor

Richard Avedon was an American fashion photographer in the 1950's who worked closely with Harpers Bazaar regularly and became there head photographer.
Rankin's recreation of Dovima with Elephants was with british model Erin O'Connor who had previously worked with Richard Avedon before he died and he told her "she reminded him of Dovima and showed her an image of Dovima and called her "the modern day Dovima and what the image represents" 

David Bailey- Jean Shrimpton 1960


David Bailey is a London born and based fashion photographer and is the only photographer from all seven who is still alive today. His shots were of many celebrities of the 60's such as The Beatles and East End gangsters The Kray Twins. Most of his photographs revolved around sex and spontaneity, he created some of the most iconic images of the 60's.
Rankin recreated this iconic image of Jean Shrimpton using his model girlfriend Tuuli Shipster whilst David Bailey stands on the sidelines to give his input and advise to Rankin. 
The image of Jean Shrimpton gives off a feel of flirtatiousness with an idea of playfulness at the same time. 

Helmet Newton- Rue Aubriot 1975

Helmut Newton was a german born fashion photographer who worked regular with Vogue in the 70's-  the era of sexual liberation, his images often saw strong women in highly charged scenarios where the fashion photographs suggested something more than just a beautiful snapshot. 
Rankin recreated the image using model Jade Parfitt. People say that Newton was not a hands on photographer and was quite distant and reserved. 

Rankin with model Jade Parfitt.

Guy Bourdin- Untitled Vogue 1970
Guy Bourdin was a french fashion photographer in the 1950's his images where known as "the edge of pornography", Bourdin's images would stylise sex and beauty, Which is quite brave of Rankin to try to recreate without being too racy and pushing the boundaries too far.
The model Rankin worked with to recreate this iconic image was model and socialite Daphne Guinness he also has the help of Bourdin's assistant Icaro Kosak who worked closely with Guy throughout his career which he described him as "an enraged fawn for the few seconds that led up to a shoot"

Rankin with model Daphne Guinness 

Fred with Tyres- Herb Ritts 1984

Herb Ritts was an american fashion photographer in the 80's and created some of the most beautiful fashion images, and mainly concentrated on the black and white photography, this image was commissioned by Franca Sozzani who is now the editor for Italian Vogue, she quoted Herb as "a beautiful photographer who wanted to make beautiful images.
Fred with Tyres was supposed to be just a simple feature about workers in denim.
Rankin recreated the image with model Dave Gandy.

Rankin with model Dave Gandy

Ellis Faas

Ellis Faas

http://www.ellisfaas.com/brand/about/

Ellis Faas was born and raised in the Netherlands in 1962 and always had a keen interest in fashion and her own opinion on what she thought worked.
Ellis first started out her career as a photographer once she left school and often used herself as her own model and took images of herself made up in makeup which was where she began to realise her true passion was in the makeup field and soon said goodbye to photography.
Ellis went to Paris and attended a course in makeup and special effects at the Christian Chauveau's Technical School of Artistic Makeup which was the first key step she took into becoming a makeup artist.

Soon after this Ellis made her travels to London where her career soon took off and she became very successful, she used her skills with special effects for medical inserts and also worked on various music video's of that time. 

In 1999 Ellis's career took off once again when she was approached by the world renowned fashion photographer Mario Testino to work with him on a L'Uomo Vogue shoot, and soon after this she was accompanying Mario across the globe to places such as Paris, New York, LA and London. This helped act a platform for when Ellis had a chance meeting with fashion editor Emmanuelle Alt who introduced her to the world famous head designer and creative director for Chanel and Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld, to which became the turning point for Ellis and she was then managing a team of makeup artist's backstage at the Chanel and Fendi fashion shows.

Here are some examples of who Ellis Faas has worked with throughout her career;

Chanel
Fendi
Giorgio Armani
Diesel
Lanvin
Yves Saint-Laurent
Jean-Paul Gaultier
Vogue
Harpers Bazaar
Dazed & Confused


Ellis was also asked to create a makeup line for L'oreal's new skincare brand which turned out to be 'Biotherm' which I have personally heard a lot about on youtube and other bloggers seem to recommend it, however, her contract with L'oreal came to a close in 2007 and she went on to launch her own cosmetic brand- 'ELLIS FAAS'

Looking at Ellis's portfolio work which is posted on her website there is something very inspiring about it as its quite edgy and fresh but also seems to draw from something very British or European with 1970's/1980's concepts.


Ellis Faas- Identity Revealed

For the short film clip Sharon gave us to have a look at and give a short review on I personally think the makeup that Ellis has created is very beautiful but portrays an animalistic theme throughout, it has glamour but yet still keeps in with traditional themes. It seems that she has taken inspiration from different cultures and elements from around the world and shows emotions and feelings in a dignified way. 

Val Garland

Val Garland



Val Garland is makeup artist to some of the most well known models and A-list celebrities. 
Val is a London based makeup artist, originally from Bristol and then emigrated to Australia where she trained to become a hair colourists to add to her skills set. In 1994 Val made her return back to the UK where for the past 20 years she has worked on some huge projects with highly respected fashion designers, models and magazine publications such as;

Alexander McQueen
Vivienne Westwood

Kate Moss
Georgia May Jagger
Barbara Palvin

Vogue
Dazed & Confused
i-D

With the work Val has produced on all of the above and many more it has lead her to go onto to work internationally with some of the worlds most famous name's like Mario Testino, John Galliano and Chloe Sevigny.
http://showstudio.com/contributor/val_garland


Val's work can bee seen on the models for Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 14 catwalk show which coincidentally gives the idea of contemporary Elizabethan. Which will have had a huge contribution from Vivienne Westwood herself as we are all aware she is very much a patriot to British History has a very Elizabethan edge to her design styles and a very British feel throughout all of her shows and collections. I do particularly love this look that Val had produced as its so fresh and the skin looks very youthful and clear but with the pearls and flush of red through the lips and cheeks it gives the strikingness of contemporary Elizabethan.
http://www.nikkietutorials.com/site/2014/03/2014s-10-best-aw-fashion-week-beauty-looks/


Also on a personal note Val Garland actually follows me on twitter which is absolutely amazing!!






Halloween- Day of the Dead

Day of the Dead Halloween Makeup

In Monday's practical make up session this week we were given a fun task of creating Day of the Dead makeup to fit in with the theme of it being Halloween week.

So we partnered up and were given around 45 minutes each to create the makeup look on each other and swap over and take pictures.

The products we used were the Kryolan supra colour palette which are the grease based colours to give off a stronger build up of colour.

Given the fact we only had a limited amount of time to do the final look and swap over I think my makeup look turned out quite well apart from the lip makeup as the black kept smudging into the white base.