Selfie Portrait

Selfie Portrait

So this is my selfie portrait with everything that represents me as a person and what I hold close to me. You can see in the picture that there are lots of picture on the wall which are pictures of my friends and family who I am extremely close with and they mean a lot to me!
In the bottom right of the picture there are my car keys which I rely on a lot now and sometimes don't realise how much I need my car as i'm the kind of person who likes there freedom and independence and to travel around and especially now I have moved quite far away from home for University i know that I can always travel home or wherever I need to go without relying on public transport or anybody else.
You can tell that the picture was taken on an iPhone camera due to the quality and colour of the image which proves that we move on with technology, as well I have my laptop as one of the main points in the picture which I have also become very reliant on since I have started University as I have used it to keep up to date with this blog and researching for the work on my course.
In the back of the picture you may be able to work out that the acrylic drawers are were I store my makeup and perfumes which means a lot to me and hope to see myself heading down that career route in the near future, I would also like to think that it looks pretty well organised which is who I like to think I am as a person when it comes to makeup and that I am self aware about what it is i want from life and that my visions for the future are clear.

Practical: Lips

Lips

1. Apply a moisturising lip balm or primer to the lips before hand which will help when applying any lip colours and products and will also help to keep them in place and hydrated for longer, ask your model to apply this to there lips as they will be able to really work it in to the lips and corners of the mouth.

2. Carry on with applying makeup to all the other areas of the face to give this time to soak in or you can dab the lips with a tissue to remove any excess product that hasn't been absorbed. 

3. Using a lip pencil or small angled brush apply the lip colour to the back of your hand or if your using a pencil apply directly to the lips. Using the edge of the angle brush carefully and ask the client to lightly stretch there lips out so you can cover all areas apply the colour to the outer corner of the lips and work your way into the centre of the edge of the lip doing this on both sides of the lips and colour over the centre.

For the top and bow of the lips, start from the centre of the bow and working your way out to the outer edges, remember to keep checking n the mirror that both sides of the lip are equal and you are happy with the shape then fill the lips with colour 

Once you are happy with how the lips look and you have covered all area grab a piece of tissue and gently dab/blot the lips  then reapply the colour over again this will help to keep the colour in place longer and not begin to fade but also help to intensify the colour and give it a stronger look.

Practical: Natural Eyes

Natural Eyes

Creating a natural eye makeup can immediately enhance the pupils and bring the face more "to life" in the sense of awakening the face and beautifying.

Key products to create natural eyes are;
Small/Medium Rounded Brush
Eyeshadow palette
Angled Brush
Cotton Buds
Cotton Pad
Disposable Mascara Wands
Mascara
Powder Puff
Transluscent Powder

• Pull the eye slightly upwards by the corner/temple area using a cotton wool pad or a powder puff this will help to pull the eye tight when applying eye products but also can act as stability if you need to lean the base of your hand to steady yourself
• Apply a loose translucent powder all over the eye lid with a cotton wool pad or a fluffy powder brush, this will help to absorb any excess base foundation or natural oils that are released through the lids, it will also help to keep your eye colour in place for longer.
• Apply a lot of loose translucent powder under the eye as close and as carefully to the lash line as you can, this will help to catch any product that may fall from the eyelids whilst applying and be easier for you to dust off afterwards without stick or smudging to the face.
• Using a medium/small rounded brush take your lightest eye colour of choice and apply all over the lids, really working the product into the eyelids. You can also use different amounts of colours on the eyes it can just the one colour, two, three or three depending on what type of look you are trying to achieve for the final outcome. 
• Then for your next colour which will be a medium to darker colour, this is used to help define the eye sockets and create the crease of the eyes. You will need to start from the outside corner of the eye socket and carefully blend inwards building the colour and enhancing the shading on the outer corners of the eyes. 
• If you think you may have gone in to heavy with the darker colour you can get a cotton bud with a small amount of translucent powder and gently blend the edges to soften the colour down.
• Once you have done this you will then need to get a small angled brush and a black eyeshadow, scrap a small amount of the black eyeshadow on to the back of your hand and wet the angle brush down with water, mix them together to create a paste texture. Using the angle brush apply the black paste across and closely to the lash line
• If you want to do more of a dramatic winged eyeliner you can use a small amount of paper tape and place this on the edge of the eye which can be used as a guide for your winged liner.
• Now for mascara. You will need some disposable mascara wands and a tube of mascara, you can also use eyelash curlers if you want to as this helps to lift the lashes but it is optional.
• Apply the mascara to the underneath of the top lashes first and then underneath slightly wiggling the mascara wand to ensure that all the lashes have been coated in mascara. Remember to not double dip the mascara wand back in the mascara tube so ensure you have enough mascara on the disposable wand to cove the lashes and if you don't use a fresh disposable wand.
• Using a powder brush or cotton bud gently sweep under the eyes to wipe away the translucent powder and any excess dropped product.
• Lastly for the brows find a colour that is an exact or near enough match to the brow colours and gently sweep this colour through to give them more definition and structure to the face.

I am happy with the outcome of the eye makeup I did, however, next time I shall take more time to intensify the corner edges and crease so that it will become more visible and maybe fill in the brows slight more to fill them out more. 

Kevyn Aucoin - The Makeup Legend

Kevyn Aucoin

“Glamour is not self-conscious; it’s not trying really hard. It’s just expressing your own truth. I think that’s what the essence of glamour really is—expressing your uniqueness.”

—Kevyn Aucoin

http://kevynaucoin.com/the-brand

Kevyn with one of his many A-list client's Cher

http://articles.latimes.com/2014/feb/18/news/la-ar-makeup-show-la-features-kevyn-aucoin-20140207

Kevyn Aucoin is one of the world's most renowned make up artist's. Kevyn Aucoin was born in Louisiana and travelled to New York City with just his portfolio and no previous formal work as experience, he luckily managed to get a chance meeting with Vogue magazine which is were Kevyn's life changed forever and the rest was history. After just a few months working for Vogue, Kevyn began working closely with US fashion photographer Steven Meisel for couture and high fashion shoots. 

It only took Kevyn a decade to become a legend in the fashion and makeup industry which is nothing in the makeup world, you would normally have to work for free for around 5-7 years to get a big break but nothing compared to the scale Kevyn achieved in such a short amount of time. Kevyn worked on the many faces of A list celebrities and models some of the famous names included Cher, Gwyneth Paltrow, Janet Jackson and Courtney Love. 

He also released three books that went on to become some of the bestsellers in America these being;

http://kevynaucoin.com/the-brand

Kevyn was also hired by the makeup brand Revlon in 1993 to become there creative director for there Ultima II cosmetics line and helped to launch the new collection The Naked's, he then later went on to launch his own cosmetics brand "Kevyn Aucoin" which is still in high demand today.
In September 2001 Kevyn was unfortunately diagnosed with a rare type of tumour that he supposedly had for the biggest part of his life but it went unnoticed until then, Kevyn later passed away in May 2002 but it wasn't the tumour that resulted in his death it was of liver and kidney failure due to toxicity caused by prescription painkillers.
Kevyn Aucoin's legacy will always live on due to the way he changed makeup and how he enhanced beauty and didn't alter or change it, he also won the first ever Council of Fashion Designers of America Award for Makeup Artistry (CFDA) in 1994 and remains to be the only makeup artist to ever have been awarded such honour.
http://www.anothermag.com/current/view/4039/Remembering_Kevyn_Aucoin 

Elizabethan Portraiture

Elizabethan Portraiture

Queen Elizabeth I as a figure of royalty and nobility to her country wanted every portrait that was every painted of her to show off her love for England, its people and her nobility as a royal. As time went on her portraits become a lot more detailed and elaborate, Noble people of the higher class would also carry small miniature images of Queen Elizabeth I around with them as a sign of loyalty to her and her country. 

Each portrait that Elizabeth ever hd painted of her had a meaning behind them and the detailing with props also meant something personal to her. For example pearls where seen frequently draped around her neck and in her hair this was a sign of her high status and wealthy but also a sign of her purity as 'The Virgin Queen". Her crown is obviously a sign of her royal status to her country. In quite a few of the portraits of Elizabeth she is seen to be holding a rose or it is placed nearby this was called "The Tudor Rose" which is an emphasis on her line to the throne and her position on the royal heirachy.

The Rainbow Portrait (c.1600)

http://www.andrewgrahamdixon.com/archive/readArticle/245

The Rainbow Portrait of Queen Elizabeth I was seen to be the myth of the virgin with her hair hanging loose on her shoulders and the essence of innocence that is portrayed on her face. The cloak that she is wearing in this portrait appears to be covered in images of eyes and ears to give a sense of as her high status and royalty she is the "eyes and ears" for her country and the people of it. We can see from the visual that her head dress and collar are detailed with lace and pearls and she has jewels draped around her neck to keep up with her royal status, and the serpant that is detailed on the sleeve of her right arm symbolises the idea of freedom which is what she wanted for her country and for that to continue.

The Pelican Portrait (c.1575)

http://www.luminarium.org/renlit/elizface2.htm
The Pelican Portrait was painted to represent her to a protestant country and the people of it with the exiles returning to England in full support of her reign. As we can see this portrait is full of detailing and lots of bright colour which included red and gold which only the very wealthy people would be able to wear, cotcheneal which was a form of crushed beetles which gave the colour of deep red and then was soaked into the materials as a dye, iron oxide was also a contribution towards the dying of lace materials.  

The Phoenix Portrait (c.1572)

http://www.elizabethfiles.com/elizabeth-i-phoenix-portrait/3945/

The Phoenix Portrait was painted in representation of Queen Elizabeth I and her last ditched attempt at finding her true love, she is seen to still be holding the "Tudor Rose" which still shows emphasis on her line of royalty and her passion and dedication on the royal hierarchy but also reinforces her virginal ideals and her anticipation to find love.

The Ermine Portrait (1585)

http://www.naergilien.info/real-life-research/interesting-findings/
The Ermine Portrait was painted with the presentation of Elizabeth's significant royalty and wealth, as you can see she is seated with an Ermine which is part of the weasel family but seen to be symbolic of royalty and if you can see closely the Ermine has a small gold crown placed around its neck to put more emphasis on the high status and wealth, we can also clearly see the handle of a gold sword to the right of the portrait which I think clearly states the high power and strength Elizabeth holds as the Queen of England. 

Contemporary Portraiture

Contemporary Portraiture

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1382664/Forget-Pippa-Middleton-Chelsy-Davy-girl-Prince-Harry.html

Kate & William The Royal Wedding

Kate Middleton and Prince William's status symbol increased undoubtedly when it was announced that they were engaged to be married. The wedding itself was an event that would be remembered and was saw as a historic moment in time, second in line to the throne had found his wife. 

The wedding took place at Westminster Abbey on 29th April 2011 which is were most favoured 20th century royal weddings are to be held which also proves there high status in the royal family. Kate looked the essence of royalty and utterly stunning in her white lace dress which was designed by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen and made of satin. The elegant detailing and beautifully laced sleeves themselves are proof of royalty and showed no costs were spared. 

The diamond encrusted Cartier Scroll Tiara that Kate wore on the day with her veil was lent to her by Queen Elizabeth II which is a royal family heirloom.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-13235599

Kate has been taken in extremely well by the royal family and England as a nation who utterly adore her and her mannerism's and how well she has taken to being part of royalty, who she is now referred to as "The People's Princess" with how she still has the essence of a middle class individual and the same person she was before she was thrust into the limelight and married into royalty for example with her day to day clothing style, Kate has been seen to be wearing high street designers such as Zara and Reiss.
In the image from the Royal Wedding of the couple exiting out of Westminster Abbey the first thing we notice is the vast amount of red draped across the walls, the chairs and even on William and Harry's uniforms which still represents red being a colour of wealth and class throughout royalty and hierarchy. The image appears to have been taken from above and is a natural looking image where they are unaware the picture is being taken. The image also shows that the family is closely connected as Will and Kate are in front holding hands, Pippa and Harry are behind holding the dress which gives a sense of connection between both families and that they are two sets of siblings coming together for the marriage of William and Kate.

Extreme Contouring

Extreme Contouring

Extreme contouring is pretty much the same process as applying subtle/natural contouring but this would be used in a much more heavier and dramatic way and would probably be seen more in editorial and high fashion work. Extreme contouring is a makeup style where the facial features are enhanced as exaggerated in a much more dramatic way.
Firstly Kat shown our group a demo of the method she uses to do extreme contouring.

After Kat had shown us her demo we were then asked to give it a go on ourselves using colours of our choice and see how we got on with the task for the first time.

I wasn't really that happy with the outcome of the contouring I did on myself, i know this was my first time giving the extreme contouring ago but i feel like it was maybe slightly rushed and doesn't give it the depth it should have. I think the next time I give this a go I will build the colour up gradually to ensure I get it right and just keep practising.

Practical: Contouring

Practical: Contouring

Contouring helps to define and enhance the cheekbones and give the face more depth as a whole it can be worn in a more subtle way for day to day makeup and also more extreme and dramatic for high fashion and catwalks.

"Grease on Grease, Powder on Powder"


Step by Step Process

• First apply your base foundation- refer back to my previous post but do not powder the face this must be done at the end of the process.
• To start with you will need a darker shade of concealer compared to the base foundation and feel for the underside of the models cheekbones if you struggle to find them it can sometimes to help if your model can suck their cheeks in you should be able to find the hollows of their cheekbones.
• Apply the darker shade of concealer to the hollows of the cheekbones, the jawline, the sides of the nose to help give the illusion of thinning and also a small amount to the temples.
• Blend the concealer in using your finger to start with and then use a medium buffing brush to help blending any sharp edges in to make them look more natural 
• Once this has been done and you are happy with how the shading look, get some translucent powder on a powder puff and gently roll the powder across the concealer until the skin feel dry to touch and then brush off any excess powder with a fluffy brush.
• Apply some contour powder over the areas you have used the concealer which will also help to matte the concealer down.
• Now for highlighting you will need a lighter/gold shimmer tone powder and a medium brush, apply the powder across the tops of the cheekbones, down the centre of the nose and slightly across the forehead, under the natural brow line. 
• This will help to give the skin the illusion of a more glowing look as the natural light will reflect the highlighted areas.
• To give more of a natural look to the models face you can go in with a natural colour blush and lightly apply to the apples of the cheeks, ask your model to smile whilst doing this as it will help to give the blusher a more natural look.

My model's skin before base and contouring

Model after base and contouring

Practical: Base Foundation

Practical: Base Foundation

Base application to the face is a main step to the overall finished outcome of any makeup look you want to achieve, so if you can get this to look perfect it can immediately set off any makeup look you want to achieve and give the skin a flawless glow.

The key products that are used for the base foundation application are;
Primer
Foundation
Concealer
Powder

Primer
Priming the skin is the first part of apply the foundation base as this also helps to prep the skin and create an even canvas for the foundation to be applied to.
There are many types of primers for different skin types the main ones being Matte or Satin based. Matte primers are most for people who have a combination to oily skin type and this can help to absorb any excess oil before applying your foundation base, whereas, Satin based primers are more for people whole have a dry complexion and need something to put bit more moisture back into the skin.

Foundation
Foundations come in many different forms for all different skin types and what type of look your trying to create these being; Liquid, Cream, Powder or Grease.

Concealer
Concealer is used to help mask any under eye circles and help to open the eyes out slightly or any blemishes that you may have on your skin that you want to tone down.

Powder
Powder is used to set the makeup base and helps to keep the base in place for a longer period of time it also helps to prevent and absorb any oilyness to the skin that may occur.


Step by Step Process

1. Apply cape or towel around the models neck to avoid any makeup falling onto their clothes ad pin the hair back away from the face
2. Prep the skin with cleanser, toner and moisturiser 
3. Colour match the base to the jaw area of the face by scraping some foundation with a spatula and blending to that area to see if the colour is correct.
4. Once you have your colour, apply a small amount of primer to the foundation base and mix together 
5. Apply to the face starting in the centre and working your way outwards insuring you are really working the colour into the skin, also remember to work onto the neck and near the ears to really blend the colour
6. Once you are happy with the foundation base and have covered all areas of the face you can go onto concealing by scraping a small amount of concealer usually around 2 to 3 shades lighter than the foundation base and apply to the area under the eyes and any blemishes that may be visible and blend with a small brush or lightly with your finger.
7. Using a fluffy powder brush or kabuki brush buff into the skin using circular motions which will help to work the base into the skin and give more of a flawless and glowing base.
8. For the final step take some translucent powder either onto a powder puff or powder brush and lightly sweep over the face remember to work into the creases o the side of the nose and chin this will help to reduce any oily areas and shine that may occur to the face.

My model before base application

My model after base application

Practical: Cleanse, Tone and Moisturise

Practical: Cleanse, Tone and Moisturise


Preparing the face as a blank canvas to begin any makeup application is an essential part of the process, as you need a blank canvas to work with instead of building up on top of any makeup that may already be on the skin as this will cause the pores on the skin to become blocked and clogged which then causes breakouts.

These are the simple steps to cleansing, toning and moisturising the skin and freeing it from any makeup and dirt that may be on the skin;

Cleansing

• Prepare you client with a gown and clip the hair back out of the face.
• Wash your hands.
• Apply cleanser to some cotton wool pads, one in each hand.
• Begin with upward motions on the face to really remove any excess makeup or dirt, continue this step until the face and the cotton pads look clean and free of any make up
• Moving onto the eye are, apply more cleanser to fresh cotton pads and very gently using circular motions to closed eyes wipe away any eye makeup that your client may be wearing.
• Grab some cotton buds and apply a small amount of cleanser to the back of your hand to dab the bud into, then slowly roll the cotton bud in a downwards motion over the eyelashes to removes any excess eye makeup or waterproof mascara.
• If you still have trouble with removing any eye makeup and don't want to cause the model any pain discomfort you can ask them if they would mind wiping the eye area.

Tone

Once the skin has been cleansed and clear of any make up and dirt you can then go onto the toning the skin which will help to tighten the pores so there will be less build up of makeup.

• Apply toner to some cotton wool pads and in upward motions apply to the skin, also it may be a good idea to let the model know that it may be slightly cold to the face so you don't give them a shock when toning the skin.

Moisturise

Once the skin has been toned leave the skin to dry for a few seconds and then you can move onto the final step which is moisturising. This is a key step to preparing the skin as moisturising can act as a barrier for the skin and makeup and can help to prevent a high build up of product into the pores of the skin.

• Apply a small pea sized amount either to cotton pad or clean hands and gently massage into the skin using the same upward motions.

Colour Theory

Colour Theory, Colour Wheel & Colour Context.

Colour Theory

The colour theory is used to be a guidance to help with colour mixing, complimenting and matching of colour combinations. 

Colour Wheel

The colour wheel is used to show the relationships between the different shades of one colour and shows the primary, secondary and tertiary colours.

http://design-sketchbook.tumblr.com

Colour Context

Colour context is the effect that colours have on each other in relation to the saturation, warmth or coolness of a colour which can then go onto to have an effect of our perception of colour. 

Different readings of the same colour

http://www.colormatters.com/color-and-design/basic-color-theory

Elizabethan Based Films

Elizabethan Film Research

We have been asked to do some research into numerous films which relate and are based on the Elizabethan era and Queen Elizabeth I herself.

The list of films we are to research are the following;

Elizabeth (1997)

The Virgin Queen (1955) 

Fire over England (1937)

The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex (1939)

The Virgin Queen- TV Series (2005)

Elizabeth I- TV Series (2005)

Elizabeth (1997)-  

http://agnautacouture.com/2012/11/11/alexandra-byrne-cate-blanchett-kirsten-mcmenamy/

Cate Blanchett plays the leading role of Queen Elizabeth I after her sister passes away at the start of the film. Cate plays the character incredibly well as we see the characteristics of her innocence and purity but she soon takes control of her role as the new queen and begins to learn her way quickly. The film reflects the typical tudor makeup, hair and costumes. Using mustard yellows, red and magenta colours to determine and show the clear divide between classes. The make up has been recreated to reflect the renaissance era with shaved or lightened hairlines and shaved eyebrows which you can see in the picture above of Cate she has had her eyebrows lightened and blocked out with the whitened and matte finished makeup.

Red lips and pink cheeks showed a sign of higher class which can been seen throughout the film where as the lower class where established by having suntans because they worked outside which now in the 21st Century is opposite as it is seen be a popular and a thing of beauty if you have a suntan. 

Makeup, Hair and Costume Department for the film;

Jenny Shircore- Hair and Make Up Designer

Anita Burger- Make Up Artist

Susan Howard- Special Effects Artist

Alexandra Byrne- Costume Designer

Jenny Shircore actually went onto win an Oscar award for her work on the film.

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0127536/fullcredits?ref_=tt_cl_sm#cast

The Virgin Queen (1955)-

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/2814818489014541/

Bette Davis reprises her role of Queen Elizabeth I this time in the film "The Virgin Queen" 16 years after playing the role of Queen Elizabeth I in the film "The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex". The film of The Virgin Queen is based on the story of Sir Waltor Raleigh winning her over to finance his plans for a proposed voyage to the "New World".

The costumes styling has been done well with the idea of pearl and lots of jewllery for the upper class society idea, Bette Davis can also be seen with the signature Queen Elizabeth I fiery red hair which has been tightly curled and pressed into place. 

Make Up, Hair and Costume Department;

Ben Nye- Make Up Artist

Helen Turpin- Hiar Stylist

Perc Westmore- Makeup Artist to Bette Davis

Mary Wills- Costume Designer

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0048791/fullcredits?ref_=tt_cl_sm#cast

Fire over England (1937)- 

http://www.theguardian.com/film/filmblog/2013/jun/27/fire-over-england-spanish-armada

Flora Robson takes the lead role of Queen Elizabeth I in the 1937 film based on the pressure between Spain and England in the 15th Century and how there is a plot discovered to dispose of the Queen. Michael Ingolby is sent to go undercover and spy on Philip of Spain. 
As the film is was produced in the 1930's it has been produced in black and white colour so it is difficult to work out what colouring would be used on the costume designs, but as for detailing you can clearly see Flora is dressed in pearls and ribbon to represent her nobility and high class wealth, there is also a lot of jewllerey and what seems to be heavy earrings and detailed headpieces.
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028872/

The make up artist is unknown, however, there was speculation that Flora wore a prosthetic nose piece for her role of Elizaeth, as for her eyebrows it is clear that they were bleached to give a lighter colour to them and over plucked for the thinner, barely there look. 

http://www.themakeupgallery.info/character/cham/robson.htm

Costume Design- Rene Hubert

Makeup Artist & Hair - Unknown

Special Effects- Lawrence W. Butler 

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028872/fullcredits?ref_=tt_cl_sm#cast

The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex (1939)-

http://classixquest.wordpress.com/2013/01/13/the-private-lives-of-elizabeth-and-essex-1939/
Bette Davis takes on this role of Queen Elizabeth I alongside Errol Flynn in the this film which is based around the relationship of Elizabeth and Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex in 1596 and when he fails to deliver Spanish treasure back to her.
Bette Davis shaved her hairline for her role in the film to give the more accurate appearance of Elizabeth. 
Perc Westmore is shown to be the make up artist on set of the film.

Costume Designer- Orry Kelly
Make Up Department- Perc Westmore
Special Effects- Byron Haskin
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0031826/fullcredits?ref_=tt_cl_sm#cast

The Virgin Queen- TV Series (2005)-

http://www.bbc.co.uk/drama/virginqueen/episode3_yourreviews.shtml

Anne Marie Duff takes on the role of Queen Elizabeth in the 2005 4 part episode TV series of "The Virgin Queen" which follows through the process of Elizabeths life as she comes into power after the death of her sister. Throughout the series we see the love affair between her and Robert Dudley, the years of triumph over the Spanish Armada and her last love affair with the Earl of Essex.

Costume Design- Amy Roberts

Makeup Designer- Karen Hartley

Hair Stylist- Maureen McGill

Prosthetics- Neill Gorton

Elizabeth I TV Series (2005)-

http://prettycleverfilms.com/movie-lists/tudors-movies/
Helen Mirren takes on the role of Elizabeth in this 4 part mini TV series based on the last 25 years of Elizabeth's reign of England, which we see the final years of her relationship with the Earl of Essex comes to an end. The TV series is based in 1579 where Elizabeth has been reigning Queen for 20 years and still refused to get married. 
Helen Mirren went on to win a Golden Globe and Emmy award for her performance and portrayal in the series. 

Costume Design- Mike O'Neill
Makeup- Jan Hop-Kavanagh
Hair- Sue Westwood
Special Effects- John Weston

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0465326/

Tudor Cosmetics

Tudor Cosmetics

Tudor Cosmetics differed extremely compared to today in the 21st Century make up, for example many different materials were used to create what we call makeup such as ceruse which is a form of white lead which was used to whiten down the face. Vermilion was another factor which contributed towards the cosmetics in the 16th Century which is a bright red tone of pigment which females liked to wear on there lips and cheeks.

The ideal beauty of Elizabethan women were seen as bright eyes, snow white skin, red lip and cheeks and fair or fiery red/orange coloured hair.

This ideal can be seen on portraits and images of Lettice Knollys, Countess of Leicester and Cousin to Queen Elizabeth, She was highly regarded as one of the most beautiful women of the 16th Century.

Lettice Knollys

https://allthingsrobertdudley.wordpress.com/category/lettice-knollys/

Spreading lead so frequently onto the skin caused the females many skin problems and was described to have made the skin "grey and dishevelled". Sulphur and boiled egg whites were also a popular option that was used to whiten down the skin as a base.

There were many different way to lighten and bleach the hair as red or blonde was eagerly sought after, one being urine applied to the hair, and if the colour couldn't be achieved some women would wear false hair and wigs which was seen as common practice among the Elizabethan period.

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/makeup.html

The Westmore Family

The Westmore Family

http://www.imdb.com/media/rm2510980608/tt1688059

The Westmores where a pillar post for beauty and make up in Hollywood around the 1920's and had as many as 4 generations of make up artists, their patriarch being George Westmore, who fathered six legendary sons- Perc, Ern, Monte, Wally, Bud and Frank which all worked on famous hollywood film sets through the 1920/1930's and onwards.

George Westmore established Hollywood's first makeup department in 1917 which was in the American Motion Picture Company 'Selig Studios' and then as a family the Westmores went on to build their own salon "House of Westmore" which is based on Sunset Boulevard and has served many hollywood stars and the public as well. 

Around the year of 1926 Monte, Perc, Ern and Bud all became chief makeup artists at four major movie companies for beauty and horror films that went on to still be some of the most famous Hollywood films. Monte first made his debut as a makeup artist by becoming the sole makeup artist to famous actor of the 20's Rudolph Valentino who starred in roles for "The Son of Sheik" and "The Eagle", he also worked until his death on the film "Gone with the Wind" as hair stylist and makeup artist but was seen be uncredited in the film titles. 

Perc Westmore worked for over 27 years in the industry of hair and makeup and worked with some of the greater names in the business such as Charles Laughton for the character of Quasimodo in "The Hunchback of Notre Dame (1939)", he also worked closely with the Hollywood actress Bette Davis and help create the transformation into Queen Elizabeth I with whiten face, almost balding hairline and eyebrow less in the movie "The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex (1939)" 

After doing some research I have also found out that the Westmore family have a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame which is a massive achievement and help us to understand the true scale of their success as a family and individuals within the makeup and film industry.

The Westmore family tree and desendants.

http://makeupmag.com/article/id/536/

Bette Davis in "The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex" makeup by Perc Westmore

http://www.themakeupgallery.info/period/c16/uk/elizabeth/essex.htm

Charles Laughton as Quasimodo "Hunchback of Notre Dame" by Perc Westmore

http://www.themoviescene.co.uk/reviews/the-hunchback-of-notre-dame/the-hunchback-of-notre-dame.html

The Westmore star on the Walk of Fame

http://www.themoviescene.co.uk/reviews/the-hunchback-of-notre-dame/the-hunchback-of-notre-dame.html

About Me

About Me 

Hello lovely people! 

My name is Becky, I'm 21 and I have recently moved to Southampton from my hometown Leicester and I have finally started my journey at University on a Make Up and Hair Design course, which for me was so nerve wracking to be moving away from home for the first time and meeting so many new people not only on my course but also in my residence, but I really had nothing to be scared about as everyone I have met so far have been so kind and lovely to me! 

I do have some past experience in make up as I recently qualified in Level 3 Makeup, Hair and Theatrical Special Effects over the summer and have had some work experience from the course. 
It did take me a while to realise what I wanted to do as a career as I was stuck between the fine line of Beauty and Makeup but eventually realised this was the route for me as I have always had a strong passion for make up and over the past year I really surprised myself at how much of a determined individual I was to get into University and now I'm actually here and on the route to where I want to be in life I can't wait to see what the future has in store for me!! 

Elizabethans- Project Brief

Project Brief

For our first assignment of the year we have been giving the topic area of the Elizabethan era. My personal knowledge of the elizabethan era and history itself hasn't always been my strong point and is  slightly limited, however, to me the Elizabethan era is what set the foundation of English History obviously Queen Elizabeth I played a key part in the is but also for Shakespeare and the time of the Tudors. 

My fears for this assignment is that I don't want to feel and also show that I lack in the knowledge of this era which could then possibly lead to being my downfall with my overall work at the end of this assignment, I would like to think that even though my knowledge isn't great on the Elizabethans I shall learn quickly and pick up on the styles and key characteristics which could then help me produce some great work and full fill my knowledge more. 

I am looking forward to learning about the key characteristics of the styling and how the clothes, colour choices and hair had a meaning behind them and the way this determined and separated people into different classes of society.

Elizabethan Beauty Ideals.

The beauty ideals of the upper class of society in the Elizabethan era was that the females where the image of the 'English Rose' with paled white skin using white make up and tinted cheeks for a flushed innocent look and red lips. 

Elizabeth I (1533–1603)

by British (English) School

The Cooper Gallery 

http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/elizabeth-i-15331603-68843

I particularly like this painting of Elizabeth I as it is one of the more clearer images we can see of her and the detailing that has gone into painting her dress and and showing the texture of her hair, also because I think the make up she has also shows how this has travelled through the changes of time and how people still wear this style of pale complexion and soft pink cheeks, which I feel is relevant for my project as I can reflect back in history but also see how it has modernised through time. 

The website I have come across to help me research into the Elizabethan beauty and style ideals also states that people from the lower class of society where not aloud to wear this look of paled white skin as they would work outside and therefore have a suntan, and thus meaning you could tell the difference from upper and lower class of people in the Elizabethan era. 

http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-make-up.htm

Induction Week

Induction Week

The start of the beginning I suppose you could say... I have met some really lovely girls on my course on induction week who I think I will get on with extremely well! 

For our induction week we were given some orientation tasks to complete as groups, one of them being taking a trip into Southampton centre and visiting the makeup counters of MAC, Smashbox, Benefit, Laura Mercier and Bobbi Brown to find out what there 'hero product' is and there bestsellers on each counter and also take pictures, so we headed into John Lewis at West Quay Shopping Centre to the make up counters.

MAC Store

MAC's new Ccollection with Brooke Shields

Bobbi Brown Top 10 Bestsellers

The second task we were set through our induction week was to produce a character of who we see our selves to be and look like in 5 years time, sort of bring our mood boards to life in a character by using a brown paper bag, once we had finished our designs we where then asked to go out around Southampton and get a picture taken of us wearing our paper bags in public.

My graduation inspired paper bag looking slightly dishevelled.

Illamasqua Seminar & Activity

Further on into our Induction week we were lucky enough to be given a talk and demo from some of the team at the Illamasqua brand; Head of Professional Development, Spob. The International Brand Ambassador, Charlotte and also there Events Manager Josephine. 

Charlotte provided us with a demo of the recent catwalk look that Illamasqua did on the Sorapol SS15 catwalk show, she talked us through the look and some of the key products and tools that were used, to name a few; 

Hydra Veil

Highlighting Brush 

Eye Pencils in Honour and Navy 

The overall outcome of the look was stunning

Charlotte giving the demo 

After the demo we were asked to split off into groups to create our own fantasy character using only limited products that the Illamasqua team provided us with and give a short pitch of what our final look was aiming for and was about. We decided to try and create a reincarnated look of a 1920's female with the paled out skin and light contouring with a dark lip, this look was very simple but closely focused on the colouring to the skin. The products we used where 'Skin Base Foundation in 6' to neutralise the skin and give it one all over colour and then went onto build the face up with 'Transluscent Loose Powder in 010' to try to build the effect of paled out hollow skin, for the lips we chose the shade 'Howl' which is a deep matte red lipstick which isn't too bright and kept within the theme of the 1920's idea we were trying to go for. 

Charles Fox Seminar

Towards the end of Induction Week we had a visit from some of the team at Charles Fox who introduced us to the brand and gave us an insight into who and what the brand is. There store is based in Covent Garden, London and is solely owned by the brand Kryolan. I felt this talk was extremely helpful by the way they talked through many different products that they offer and examples of what each can be used for, such as the certain products that they use in TV, Film, Theatre and Special Effects, and to see the vast amount of products for each was amazing! I have previously worked with some Kryolan products before but I felt like this talk has really helped me understand the products in a lot more detail. We where also informed that other large make up brands such as Daniel Sandler, Becca and Illamasqua use Kryolan based products. We were also given some advice by the team on the best ways to expand our kits when the time comes and to not think about what products we would personally want  but to always think about the professional side and what do you actually need in your kits. 

Kryolan/Charles Fox Products